Here’s how Santha Samms of Eve Cosmetics suggests you help clients highlight their best underside.
Jawlines are always an interesting subject. Some of us have naturally gorgeous jawlines while others need a little help to hide sagging or a double chin effect. Did you know that if you have a long face, you can shorten the chin? If your face is round, you can emphasize cheekbones. And if you have a wide nose, you can slim it down – we call this shading and contouring.
All of our jawlines can benefit from a little highlighting and contouring. For example: applying a bronzing powder that’s two shades darker than your skin tone under your jawline will create a nice sharp line and square off your chin, giving you a thin, sculpted face.
The most important thing to remember when shading and contouring is that dark shades recede, while light colours bring features forward. Also, it’s just as important to remember that a little bit of product goes a long way. So start light and build on until you have created the appearance of shadows that create more depth in places where the sun does not normally hit. This will build a much more sculpted look to your bone structure and in turn, completely slim and transform the dimensions of the face.
To get you started, we have provided an example of how you can slim down the jawline to bring out cheekbones using the following technique:
1. APPLY YOUR BASE – Apply face primer and foundation. Allow to dry especially if you are using powder products for contouring.
2. SLIMMING THE JAWLINE – Draw a line above jawline with a lighter shade of DISAPPEAR PRO PALETTE or FOUNDATION STICK and hold the stick at the higher end point. Then drag the stick back down towards your chin to the starting point. It doesn’t have to be perfect.
3. BLEND WITH FINGERS – Blend it into the skin by tapping your fingers over and over it until it disappears into skin. If you still see streaks use a concealer brush to smooth out any edges
4. STIPPLE ON BRONZER – Sweep a stipple brush or angled brush over the MATTE BRONZE FINISHING POWDER compact. Tap off excess product. Hold the brush at an angle against the jaw so half of the brush is above the jaw, the centre of the brush should be directly on the jawline and the bottom half of the brush should be just underneath the jawline. Then sweep it along the area demonstrated in the diagram. But make sure not to bring the line in too far that it adds jowls. Buff the brush back and forth a couple times to blend it in, keeping the concentration of colour at the very edges so it’s not noticeable but still does its job. Blend lightly back and inward toward the throat making sure not to over-apply.
NOTE: For those with a pronounced jawline it’s recommended avoiding adding any additional shadow here. It will only add more depth and make the jaw appear more angular.
‘ DISAPPEAR PRO PALETTE or FOUNDATION STICK: Both these products work well for highlighting and contouring. For highlighting always pick a shade that is one shade lighter than your foundation. You want to draw attention to the jawline but not too much attention.
‘ MATTE BRONZE BAKED FINISHING POWDER: This powder is perfect for shading because it is usually a few shades darker than your foundation. You can use darker shades in any of the above products too but make sure to use the same product to contour or bronze your cheeks, temple and forehead.
‘ STIPPLE BRUSH: This brush is perfect for contouring. You can also use an angled powder brush or medium sized powder brush too. Regardless of what products you use for shading and contouring, always use a makeup brush to blend the product into the skin to avoid a streaky finish.
EVE COSMETICS offers customers premium makeup that is affordable. The Australian brand sources skin caring ingredients that have been tried, tested and proven successful by other leading brands and aligned to match international pricing set by other quality brands sold all around the world.
Eve Cosmetics recently introduced a colour accurate CUSTOM COLOUR PROGRAM that offers a unique makeup experience where clients can get their colour foundation shade accurately matched to their skin tone and formulated within minutes. Based on the latest breakthrough in technology, we have combined healthy skin formulas with one of the fastest and most colour accurate colour matching solutions available. No more long sessions of testing and retesting shades on clients.