The Big Cover-Up

Lunchtime procedures have changed the face of the skin rejuvenation and correction business. Of course they can be had any time but the beauty is that clients can achieve significant improvements in a relatively short space of time and return to their normal routine without interruption.

However, there are few clients who will want to face the world with redness, bruises and other telltale signs they’ve had something ‘done’.

camouflage-makeupThis is where understanding the importance of camouflage makeup – what products to use, and how, immediately after a treatment, as well as giving DIY tips and selling products for home use – is a potent business tool.

The kinds and colours of camouflage makeup used will depend on whether clients have had procedures such as microdermabrasion, skin needling or peels, laser, IPL or other energy-based treatments, dermal fillers or anti-wrinkle injections … the list goes on.

Even after a facial, clients will appreciate the offer of a makeover so they aren’t left barefaced. It can also increase loyalty among customers suffering from ongoing conditions such as chronic redness, uneven discolouration or hyperpigmentation, acne-prone and otherwise troubled complexions.

SPA+CLINIC spoke to experts about what to keep in mind when offering this service to clients and potentially stocking products for them to buy and use (wisely, with your advice) at home.

The Right Stuff. When researching camouflage products to use or stock for sale in your salon, spa or clinic, ‘look for nurturing ingredients that aid healing and reduce inflammation,’ says Terri Vinson, Melbourne biochemist, founder and formulator of Synergie Skin, Synergie Practitioner and Synergie Minerals ranges.

‘These include colloidal oatmeal, bisabolol, aloe vera, beta glucan, Canadian willowherb, seabuckthorn oil, shea butter and castor bean oil. ‘Avoid any products with artificial colour, fragrance, parabens or petrolatum. Mineral makeup is ideal as it also provides natural sun protection.’

What Lies Beneath. Treatments such as microdermabrasion, peels and skin needling can leave skin feeling dry, tight or even extremely sensitive for up to a few days. So just as important as camouflage redness or bruising is recommending the right skin care products to use beneath.

‘The skin will absorb products like certain serums very well as it has been stimulated and is thirsty for hydration,’ says Colin Sternberg, CEO of OFRA Cosmetics in Australia.

‘Certainly reminding clients to wear an effective SPF30 is essential, especially after treatments like microdermabrasion as the skin will be more sensitive to the damaging effects of UV.’ The types of products that can be used after treatments will depend on the client’s skin type and the treatment they’ve had. Reputable skincare and makeup brand distributors will have trainers to guide you through this maze.

Keep It Clean. ‘The risk of infection or cross contamination is very high when the skin surface is broken or damaged,’ says Terri. ‘As application of makeup is optimised with high quality brushes, it is very important to ensure all brushes are cleaned between clients using a professional brush cleaner, preferably with grain-derived alcohol.’

Therapists should never use fingers or double dip the spatula in the jars of products the use. if metal implements are used, disinfect them with alcohol before using any other product and certainly between clients.

Be Rid Of Red. After procedures such as microdermabrasion or peels, the skin is likely to be red, some clients’ more than others. ‘Yellow-tone foundations will help neutralise redness,’ says Jacqui Hollins, brand director of Jane Iredale.

‘Any of our foundations can be used immediately following microdermabrasion with the exception of Liquid Minerals, which we recommend waiting until 24 hours post-procedure. Concealers can be used as well to help achieve the desired finish.’

Says Terri Vinson: ‘Redness is best camouflaged with green concealer. This is because green opposes red on the colour wheel. Lightly apply over redness to achieve an ‘ashy green’ veil and apply mineral foundation lightly over the top. Correct blending and application by a professional is important.’ Rosacea, diffuse redness or broken capillaries can also be concealed in the same manner as after treatments.

Banish Bruises.  ‘Colour theory is one of the main components to covering a bruise,’ says Jacqui Hollins. ‘The Corrective Colors kit was designed to cover of not using products that will further the various stages of a bruise: Yellow conceals aggravate the skin and being vigilant redness; peach hides blue, purple or grey; lilac to hygiene (such as using clean brushes covers yellow; and beige helps with blending.’

Terri says it is best to layer the camouflage in light ‘ashy’ layers and alternate between camouflage cream and foundation. Use dabbing motions with the concealer brush and blend until there are no edges. Continue layering until desired camouflage is achieved. Always finish with mineral foundation as the final layer.’

Browned Off. Pigmentation is among Australians’ greatest skincare concerns and thus corrective salon, spa or clinical treatments are highly sought-after.

Clients will appreciate being shown what products to use and how to apply them to effectively camouflage browns spots and patches or uneven skin tone in their everyday lives.

‘Pigmentation is yellow-based, so a mauve (opposes yellow) camouflage is recommended,’ says Terri Vinson. ‘Apply with the same light layering method as covering bruises.’

Trouble Spots. Clients having treatment for acne and other congestion have to be acutely aware of not using products that will further aggravate the skin and being vigilant to hygiene (such as using clean brushes and sponges) or otherwise they risk inflammation or infection.

For camouflage, it is important to use products that will not clog the pores and worsen the congested skin,’ says Terri. ‘Concealer may be applied, but be sure to check the ingredient list.

‘Ensure any oils in the concealers are non-comedogenic and also avoid dimethicone and artificial colours. Acne sufferers are advised to use loose minerals as foundation due to the calming zinc oxide and oil free formulation.’

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